Domaine de Valmoissine goes through the same vinification techniques as much more complex red Burgundies, using traditional oak barrel aging and the all-important "elevage," which is key to the quality in this wine. It is light and fruit-forward and utterly likable for outdoor dining this time of the year.

In the glass, Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is a light garnet-red color with a nice semi-opaque core going out into an orangey-tinged rim definition with medium viscosity.

It looks a lot older than it is, but that's not a deterrent, because on the nose there is pretty forward red crushed berry fruit dominated by red currants, stewed raspberries, ripe red cherries, then a little chalky soil with underlying minerals and just hints of wood.

In the mouth, there is a lovely fruity red berry palate with completely rounded flavors. There are jammy strawberries and red cherries, great structure and a nicely complex backbone through the midpalate and into the well-defined finish, showing remarkable length for the price category.

Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is a thoroughly well-made wine, which was neither fined nor filtered in the traditional Burgundian fashion. Try it with grilled turkey fillet or seared ahi tuna on the grill. Drink it now through 2010.

Wine: Louis Latour Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir

Grape: Pinot noir

Region: Burgundy, France

Vintage: 2004

Price: $13.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.