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LENNY'S LAS VEGAS: Bellissimo!

New Italian eatery has mouths watering at Green Valley Ranch

Hope you don't mind, but this is going to be kind of a food column. I don't often give a review on a restaurant as I'm the farthest thing from a gourmand you could possibly imagine. My tastes run to chicken fingers, sandwiches and burgers in that order. If I go out for dinner, it's usually Italian or Chinese, although being Italian, I'm very critical of the food served in our Italian restaurants.

However, I used to frequent Il Fornaio in Green Valley Ranch in Henderson, which is located almost around the corner from my house and enjoyed the food. So I was a little teed off when it closed recently for no apparent reason. But a few weeks ago, a new Italian eatery opened in its place, called Terra Verde and owned by Station Casinos, so I thought I'd give it a try.


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  • To say I was impressed, is like saying Streisand is an OK singer or DeNiro isn't a bad actor. First of all, Terra Verde offers a wide selection of dishes and more than 1,500 bottles of premiere Italian and California wines. I opted, hesitantly I might add, for the Primavera Risotto. I say hesitantly because not many places make good risotto, and certainly very few come close to the risotto my nonna made.

    All I can say is, "Sorry, nonna, but this was as good as yours." She'll probably turn over in her grave if she hears me say this. But it's true. Add to that a glass of Broccato from the Dievole winery in Italy and I was a happy camper. I also had some decadent chocolate dessert that would give any chocoholic an orgasm.

    None of this should have come as a surprise once I found out and met executive chef Massimiliano "Max" Campanari, who Station Casinos lured from Wynn Las Vegas' Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare. I complimented him on the meal, as did my companions, who each had a different dish, and wished him "buona fotuna" although I'm sure luck will have nothing to do with Terra Verde's success.

    He even let me in on some of his favorite dishes, which I will now pass on to you. Risotto con cappesante e asparagi -- Carnaroli rice, imported from Italy, with scallops, fresh asparagus and saffron sauce; Branzino alla ligure -- Mediterranean sea bass filet with potato, black olives and white wine sauce; Involtini di vitello -- pan-seared veal rolls with prosciutto, fontina cheese, sage, white wine veal sauce and spinach; and Pansotti in salsa di noci -- fresh stuffed pasta filled with green Swiss chard and ricotta in a creamy walnut sauce. Kinda puts my peanut butter and jam sandwich to shame.

    So if you love Italian food, and who doesn't, put this on your "must-go-to" list. The restaurant is open Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. You can make reservations, which I recommend, by calling 702-617-7075.

    DINE-AND-DANCE

    Here's something for all the hip crowd who love to eat late and party into the wee hours. Studio 54 and Shibuya at MGM Grand have joined forces to satisfy that very lifestyle. It's called the $54 Dine-and-Dance Package, which lets you enjoy a late-night dinner of modern Japanese cuisine followed by VIP entry to one of our town's hottest nightclubs.

    The Dine-and-Dance menu includes all of the following, per person: Rock Shrimp Tempura Wrap with spicy aioli, Yellowtail Sashimi with yuzu juice and ginger soy, Toban-Spiced Albacore with citrus ponzu and crispy onions, Roasted Beef Tenderloin with truffle ponzu and Japanese mushrooms, one California roll, two pieces of Nigiri Akami, two pieces of Whitefish, Sake and Mochi. After dinner, you'll receive complimentary VIP entry to Studio 54 where you will enjoy an eclectic music mix combined with performances by beautiful women, aerialists, acrobats and more. It really is a very "cool" place.

    This offer is for a limited time only and you must be 21 or older to enter. It's also only valid with parties of two or more. Seating is from 9 to 10 p.m. so make reservations by calling (702) 891-3001 or visit www.mgmgrand.com/dining.

    ONE MORE WINNER

    Here we go again. Another million-dollar winner and not a dime going towards the Lenny Early Retirement Fund. Guy by the name of George Dougal from Scott, Ohio, hit for $1.1 million on a 25-cent Million Dollar Rewards slot machine at Caesars Palace. The 56-year-old school principal said he'd only been playing for around 10 minutes on $20 when he hit the jackpot. Dougal, on vacation with his wife, was staying at the Flamingo Las Vegas, a sister property to Caesars Palace. He said he will use the money to pay off bills and invest in college for his children. Very noble, but what about me? Doesn't he realize I'm going to have to keep working into my 90s before I can retire? Thanks for nothing, George.

    Good luck and I'll see you on the Strip. And don't forget to check out www.valleyblogs.com. If you have a question or a Las Vegas experience you would like to share with my readers, please e-mail me at lennylv@cox.net. Please include your full name and the city or town where you live.

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    Jack wrote on August 15, 2007 06:42 PM: Stick to whatever it is you do and leave the restaurant reviews to Heidi as you certainly are no gourmand. Terra Verde was mediocre at best, the minestrone could have been straight from a can, and the prices are approaching strip or NYC prices. The service was friendly but under-trained, we had to ask for parmesan and fresh pepper. The room was basically Il Fornaio with a minor face lift. Back in your day they would have called you a shill.