“Everybody does Scotch,” says Twin Creeks Master Mixologist John Dupont when asked why he chose to highlight bourbon at Twin Creeks steakhouse. Even as the quintessential American spirit, bourbon hasn’t enjoyed the same popularity that vodka or even Scotch have in recent years, and Dupont is seeking to change that. Having just undergone a $3.7 million redesign, Twin Creeks in Silverton Hotel and Casino has amped up not only its sleek modern decor, but its menu and cocktail offerings as well.

The dining room is plush, surrounded by custom-designed semi-private booths and low lighting. The backlit bar near the entrance is warm and inviting, and where Dupont has started pouring our first samples of bourbon (we readily admit that we know a tad more about Scotch than we do bourbon, which is to say, we don’t know much about either).

Though it had been produced in the U.S. since the 18th century, it wasn’t until 1964 that Congress declared bourbon as a distinctly American product, and began regulating its production. Bourbon must be made in America (not just Kentucky, where the spirit was born), composed of at least 51% corn and aged a minimum of two years in new, charred oak barrels. In addition to corn, a variety of other grains are used, including malted barley, rye and wheat. Like bread, bourbon that is heavy on wheat will be sweeter while those with more rye will be more bitter.

Our first sip of Elijah Craig, aged 18 years, is revealing. Bourbon takes on vanilla characteristics as it ages, and the Elijah Craig, made with corn, malted barley and rye, balances that sweetness with some round caramel flavor. The 23-year, wheat-based Pappy van Winkle arrives next, and there is a more defined sweetness. But just because it’s aged longer doesn’t mean it’s necessarily better.

Dupont informs us that the 20-year Pappy van Winkle is the top rated whiskey in the world, and that aging for 20 years should be the maximum time allowed. “After that,” he says, “It’s all overwhelming vanilla. The extra three years makes a difference—it takes away all
the nuances.”

As our appetizer of smoked duck parcel arrives, Dupont makes us a Sazerac, considered the original cocktail. Created in the 1840s in New Orleans by Antoine Amédée Peychaud, the libation was originally made with cognac and absinthe. In the 1870s a Phylloxera epidemic killed all the grape vines and Sazeracs began to be made with rye whiskey, and in 1910, when absinthe became illegal, Herb Saint was used instead.

The smoked duck parcel, a coarse-ground duck sausage with a sweet fruit chutney pairs interestingly with the Sazerac. The smoky earthiness of the duck contrasts with the black licorice flavor of the cocktail.

With our entree of braised Elysian Fields Farm lamb shank on its way, Dupont readies our next bourbon concoction: the Manhattan—the correct way. Made with Knob Creek, Italian sweet vermouth, bitters and ice, the proper Manhattan is always stirred, never shaken. Raising the glass to the mouth, the garnish of Maraschino cherry is the first sweet sensation on the nose. Drinking this cocktail evokes a feeling of a classic meal, of richness, of decadence. It’s a hearty drink that pairs well with the tender lamb and accompanying truffled potatoes.

But bourbon is for drinking after all, so for that Dupont offers bourbon flights of both the Jim Beam small batch collection and a luxury flight. So the next time you’re thinking you want to be sophisticated with scotch, consider bourbon, preferably in the capable hands of Dupont, who adds, “It’s time to come back to a real American spirit.”

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