Four Queens, 202 Fremont St.; 385-4011

A dip in service after a change in ownership a few years back has been reversed, we're happy to say, and Hugo's Cellar has returned to its rightful place as the downtown spot that best perpetuates all that was good about Old Las Vegas. The Hot Rock Specialty is a long tradition that was even better than we remembered (the stone seasoned with chopped shallots and used to cook fish, beef, chicken and shrimp) and we liked the Duckling Anise Flambe and the classic Veal Oscar. Oh, and one of the best things about Hugo's -- the tableside salad cart. (2/13/09)

Overall: A $$$$

LA MADONNA

6115 S. Fort Apache Road; 586-0925

La Madonna calls its food "avant-garde" and maybe it is, but only insofar as it's more sophisticated and skillfully prepared than much of what passes for "Mexican" food in our fair city. To wit: amazing crab cakes, shrimp tamales, a fresh-corn tamale, shredded-beef enchiladas, fish tacos and some nice fruity, housemade sangria. (5/23/08)

Overall: A $$

THE MELTING POT

8704 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6358 (also at 8855 S. Eastern Ave.)

The Melting Pot isn't the kind of place to consider if you're looking for cutting-edge cuisine, but sitting around a pot of fondue with friends or a loved one can be a fun, memorable experience. Of the various flavors and combinations available, you won't likely go wrong with the traditional cheese with Emmenthaler and Gruyere; the Signature Selection of fresh fish, shrimp, chicken, beef tenderloin and teriyaki-marinated sirloin; and nearly any version of chocolate. (4/3/09)

Overall: A $$$