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COMMON GROUND

Gold Butte lures off-roaders, historians, conservationists
















Roy and Betsy Miller cringed at the sight of fresh vehicle ruts that left a zig-zag scar on what had been a picturesque Mojave Desert hill off a dirt road that leads to the historic mining town of Gold Butte.

"This area was pristine and untouched as it had been for thousands of years," Roy Miller said on a back-roads trip this month, recalling how only a few days before there were no ruts on the hill.


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  • "On the other side there are motorcycle tracks that go up and down," he said. "There are dozens and dozens of examples like that out here."

    That's why the Millers, who are members of Friends of Gold Butte, and other Nevada wilderness advocates want the Bureau of Land Management to consider protecting the remote area, south of Mesquite and 65 miles northeast of Las Vegas, through an arrangement that couples wild lands with a national conservation area.

    BLM officials also have been trying to get a local rancher to remove cattle and equipment from a grazing allotment that was canceled in 1994 to protect habitat for the threatened desert tortoise and other sensitive species.

    If the wilderness advocates' campaign is successful, Southern Nevada then would have a third national conservation area in addition to Red Rock Canyon and Sloan Canyon, on the western and southern rims of the Las Vegas Valley.

    Their visit was timed with the release of a report by the Campaign for America's Wilderness. The report lists Gold Butte as one of 10 "treasures in trouble" that are at risk of losing their wild nature because of increased population pressure from urban areas in the various regions.

    "A national conservation area with wilderness would help to protect some of the wild areas while also designating other areas for recreation where it is appropriate to take vehicles," said Reno resident Carrie Sandstedt, the campaign's national field director.

    Since the Millers moved to Mesquite from Ohio in 2001, they have seen Gold Butte's critical environmental areas steadily degrade through reckless off-road vehicle and dirt bike use. They feel that off-roaders who don't stray from established roads and trails can coexist with others who want to hike through the area and enjoy its natural, cultural and historical resources.

    "Why can't they designate areas for off-roading?" Betsy Miller asked. "We were told it's because it's designated as an ACEC," an area of critical environmental concern.

    Off-roading is prohibited in these sensitive areas where rare plants and desert tortoises live. The terrain in many places is scarred by off-roaders who use it regardless of the prohibition and despite some 30 volunteers who monitor Gold Butte as site stewards for the BLM.

    Signs that mark the protected areas have been yanked down, and BLM officials say they can afford only one ranger to patrol Gold Butte.

    The bureau's Las Vegas field office has little funding to constantly clean up and repair damaged areas.

    Nevertheless, the BLM has completed an inventory of ancient rock art and other American Indian cultural resources. This year, the bureau will issue a contract to document Gold Butte's wildlife and botanical habitats.

    The BLM has proposed keeping 480 miles of roads open in the Gold Butte complex and closing 70 miles.

    Nancy Hall, Gold Butte coordinator for the Nevada Wilderness Project, believes a 32,000-acre swath known as Mud Hills, for example, could be designated wilderness "and you wouldn't have to close a road. I don't think there's any argument not to designate it wilderness."

    The Millers joined Hall in exploring Gold Butte's scenic and historic sites and to discuss their hope for protecting them.

    "If we don't get protection for this place, it won't be there for your grandchildren and your great grandchildren," Roy Miller said.

    Said his wife: "It makes us sad to see what's happening. It's almost like losing a friend.

    "We know it can't stay pristine forever but it needs management. We understand there are people who are anti-government."

    Among those who object to the federal government's management of the public land is longtime rancher Cliven Bundy.

    For 14 years, he has bucked the BLM's authority and continued grazing cows in the area. His grazing lease for the Bunkerville allotment was canceled in 1994.

    Bundy, 62, said at the time he didn't think the bureau is the proper landlord of public lands in Nevada. His family has run cattle on the range since 1877.

    Reached on Thursday, Bundy said his position hasn't changed.

    "My pre-emptive rights have stood strong for over 14 years since I fired the BLM from managing my ranch," he said.

    Despite his resistance to removing the cattle, the BLM notified him on April 2 that his range improvement permit is canceled and he has 180 days to remove wire, fence posts and other debris. Creating a national conservation area, as envisioned by wilderness advocates, would continue to prohibit cattle grazing.

    On April 16, about a half dozen cows were seen in an area burned by a lightning-caused wildfire in 2005 that the BLM is trying to rehabilitate.

    Last fall, dozens of cattle roamed the same area where some responsible off-roaders, the Southern Nevada Land Cruisers, were asked to pay nearly $5,500 to hold a camp-out and rally, 60 times more than they had paid for past events in which they stayed on roads and used their trucks to haul out trash left by others. Instead of paying, they canceled the event.

    Much of the increased cost was for paying the BLM to process the permit and monitor the group's activities in Gold Butte's sensitive riparian areas, some of the same areas where Bundy's cows have roamed while the BLM spent more than a decade to reverse the impacts of grazing.

    But cattle have played a role in Gold Butte's mining history dating to the 1730s when Spanish explorers camped in the area, according to Gold Butte historian John Lear.

    Evidence of their presence has been found in the form of two 20-foot-diameter rock slabs, called "arrastras," that were used for crushing gold and silver ore. Horses or mules would walk around the slabs dragging stones to pulverize the ore. The resulting fine-grain mud was then processed into gold or silver bars.

    Mormon settlers came to the area in the mid-1800s, followed by prospectors who established the Gold Butte mining town in the early 1900s. The town of about 1,500 people had a post office in 1907, but the lack of quality in ore diminished, as did the town's population in 1910.

    Lear said copper from the Tramp Mine and the Grand Gulch Mine in Arizona kept the Gold Butte area busy. As many as 100 hundred ore wagons at a time pulled by oxen and mules passed through the area from 1915 to 1917 to deliver copper to a rail spur at St. Thomas for use in World War I.

    Two miners are buried at the old town site, Art Coleman and Bill Garrett, who lived at Gold Butte from the early 1900s until their respective deaths in 1958 and 1960. Garrett was the nephew of Pat Garrett, the sheriff who killed Billy the Kid at Fort Sumner, N.M., in 1881.

    Lear said he doubts Gold Butte will become a national conservation area because of the effort involved and the potential opposition from off-road vehicle enthusiasts.

    "There's no chance. I wish good luck to them. They have the best intention," he said Friday about wilderness advocates. "I understand both people's position. They want everybody on one road, and it ain't going to happen."

    From an off-roader's perspective, what the wilderness advocates define as a road or vehicle trail is different than what many off-road enthusiasts think they are.

    Ken Freeman, past president of Southern Nevada Off-Road Enthusiasts, said in the eyes of wilderness advocates and environmentalists, these roads and trails are mechanically groomed, or graded. "Ninety percent of the trails in Nevada aren't mechanically groomed."

    Turning some of these critical areas of environmental concern into wilderness would also eliminate them from the realm of places where solar and wind energy could be developed, Freeman noted.

    As it is now, the protections for the areas is "one notch below wilderness," with seasonal limits on when off-road travel is allowed.

    Freeman acknowledged that there might be "a few bad apples" in the off-roading crowd who have no regard for signs or laws that protect these areas from damage and continue to scar the terrain, but he said that's going to continue to happen if the land is designated wilderness.

    "The majority of the users are concerned with the environment," he said Thursday. "We need to give these people a place to recreate."

    What Nevada needs, he said, is a licensing program such as other states have for off-roaders to educate them about the importance of preventing terrain damage and preserving resources.

    Hall said although that would be a step in the right direction, Gold Butte is a special place that needs better management in the form of a conservation area adjacent to wild lands.

    "The area has resources, natural, cultural and historical, in proportion of a national park, and there's no protection, no management. It needs to be done now. The BLM has been working on it for 10 years and there's still not anything on the ground.

    "If we had a national conservation area with wilderness, we could balance the recreation and education for visitors and a place for Mesquite residents to steward and grow with like Red Rock Canyon is to Las Vegas."

    Contact reporter Keith Rogers at krogers @reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0308.

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    Report abuse

    The Kid wrote on May 17, 2008 09:56 PM: I'm no environmentalist, tree-hugger, etc.. However I do believe in conservation. It is true, there are many newly formed trails in Gold Butte. It is too bad and should be slowed,not necessarily stopped.However,this is PUBLIC land, not BLM land. It belongs to us, the citizens of Clark County and the Great State of Nevada. The more regulation that we allow, the less land we can actually access. How about a little SELF control? Respect? "This land is your land, this land is my land" If you see someone damaging the landscape, petroglyphs, etc. Take pictures, write notes, report it. Why should WE expect some entity to come in and patrol OUR land. Let us self police it. It is easy to SAY, "I want this land protected!". If you really DO, spend some time protecting it! As for the cattle. These western states were built on the backs of ranchers. These areas have been ranched for GENERATIONS. Gold Butte was recently decimated by fire. Only how many short years after cattle were removed? Now WE the taxpayers are paying to rehabilitate this area. It seems letting the cattle graze, reducing wildfire danger, and creating a commodity, would be a much wiser solution. I've never met or heard of a rancher who would cause damage to the land which is providing his sustenence. Why would he? Also, ranchers have provided and maintained many water developments, providing life for untold thousands of wildlife. The wire and posts that are to be removed? Have you seen the pristine area these posts and wire are protecting? Without this fence, a very beautiful area would already have been destroyed. Let us all be responsible for and protect our land. Don't give away the rights our forefathers lived and died to provide us with.


    Report abuse

    Linda Faas wrote on April 30, 2008 05:40 PM: This is public land. It is not Bundy's cow pasture; he doesn't own it. And ATVrs can't drive in a neighbor's back yard just because they feel the urge to do so. We all share this land. The government has an obligation to preserve this area for future generations because that is their job. A solid use plan needs to be put in action to accommodate all of the citizens who want to use this area. Closing some of the newly forged trails makes sense because there are incursions endangering cultural and historical sites. People need some camping and sanitation facilities and education of the sensitivity of the area. A reasonable amount of law enforcement presence would remind folks to abide by the rules and act as a preventative factor. If all this can be provided through an NCA designation, it is needed. If improvements can be funded through off-road vehicle licensing and/or a small fee for all users of the area, that would be very helpful. These solutions work in other states. In any case, Gold Butte must be saved.


    Report abuse

    Renee wrote on April 29, 2008 08:40 PM: I agree with Denise
    IT IS ALL ABOUT RESPECT WHICH CLEARLY YOU NATIVE NAVADIAN'S DON'T HAVE !!!!
    Maybe you should move elsewhere
    like Iraq


    Report abuse

    Denise wrote on April 29, 2008 08:34 PM: I live in Idaho and can't wait till my husband retires so we can come and enjoy the beauty of the Nevada desert.
    Hiking, Exploring, Finding petroglyphs and learning about the indians that once lived there and how they lived. Keep up the great work Roy and Betsy !!!!
    I want to see the natural beauty of the desert and the wildlife not garbage and vandalism.
    It is all about respect which clearly you native Navadian DON'T HAVE.


    Report abuse

    Bruce J. Hughes wrote on April 29, 2008 08:29 PM: The Gold Butte area is a beautiful area that is in desperate need of some sort of management, there are some of the most unusual Petroglyphs and other Historical sites such as old mines and evidence of population of this area dating back for thousands of years, I support the plan that Friends of Gold Butte has for this area and thank you very much for your article as it will draw attention to the need for management in the area.


    Report abuse

    Shannon wrote on April 29, 2008 06:38 AM: Tim:
    You are obviously an idiot. I am a Nevada native (which you aren't) and have been here for 42 years. My grandparents moved here in the 1950's. You obviously know nothing about the desert and how to keep the dust down. Why don't you educate yourself. When tracks are made in the desert, they stay there! They don't go away rapidly. There are still ruts showing from wagon trains.


    Report abuse

    tim wrote on April 28, 2008 06:11 PM: go back to ohio,we live in the desert,there is going to be dust forever,dustbrain.soon as the rain comes those tracks are gone.there are millions of acres of dirt in nv.horses and wagon trains have been tracking all over the desert for years.get over it for crying out loud.there wasnt dust 20,30 yrs. ago,well guess what, i have lived here over 20 yrs.and there was a lot more dust till they paved it over and brought in city folk who dont know jack about the desert.waa waa.


    Report abuse

    dusty wrote on April 28, 2008 05:21 PM: Did anyone ever stop to consider what all the off-roading is doing to the air quality in this city? Remember last week when we couldn't see the mountains? That was dust blowing in from all the dry lake beds and other desert areas that you a-holes are riding on, breaking the crust, and then the wind comes along and we get to breathe that dust in. That didn't happen 20-30 years ago.


    Report abuse

    Thinker wrote on April 28, 2008 05:09 PM: These people who destroy pristine areas for their own personal recreation remind me of the old marlboro man commercials.... Going way out in the wilderness to breathe in some fresh smoke. A real contridiction. It eventually killed him. I agree they should have an area for their type of recreation but spoiling an untouched area is something that cannot be undone and is quite selfish. Respect what little land is left pristine. These are real National Treasures.


    Report abuse

    Brad L. wrote on April 28, 2008 04:32 PM: "Anyone ever wonder why native american defacement of sandstone is called petroglyphs, but a tagger's work on a wall is called graffiti?"

    Because the Native Americans had been here living off the land, respecting the land, and thriving from the land 700 years before your tagger let alone your tagger's great great grandparents came off the boat and "settled" here.

    At least the petroglyphs tell stories; it's hard to tell if a tagger's work is an 'urban story', or gang initiation.


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