Region: Columbia Valley, Wash.

Vintage: 2007

Price: $9.99

In the glass: The Magnificent Wine Co. Riesling is a faint yellow color with a clean, clear and star-bright appearance, translucent core going out into a fine water-clear rim definition and light viscosity.

On the nose: There is a spritzy zest of freshly squeezed apple and pear juice, kaffir lime leaves, white peach flesh, pluots and almond oil, then hints of chalky minerals and tangerine rind.

On the palate: This wine is light and refreshing right off the bat, and although fermented bone dry, it has sweetish rounded pear juice, pineapple chunks, apple sauce, citrus segments and just a touch of fresh apricot. The midpalate is light and soft -- with nice delineation and zesty minerality kissed by pomelo -- through to the finish, which is balanced between the fruit and acidity that never is obtrusive on this all-around deliciously drinking wine.

Odds and ends: If you thought all good rieslings come only from Germany, this wine is proof positive that it is not the case. The Magnificent Wine Co., founded by "crazy" man Charlie Smith of K Vintners, is in the best area for growing riesling in Washington. It is a pleasant and perfect wine for the entry of the scorching hot month of July. The Magnificent Wine Co. Riesling can be chilled to 48 degrees Fahrenheit and enjoyed by itself or as a companion to sauteed shrimp or oysters on the half shell. Drink it now through 2010.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.